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AssemblyGames are always more exciting if there is a strong visual element to them. A detailed tabletop setting and brightly painted miniatures will transform the most mundane skirmish into an entertaining evening. The playing field can be very detailed or very simple: this has no effect on the game mechanics themselves as long as the terrain types and scenery elements are clearly identified and their boundaries delimited. The following text should prove helpful to both the experienced modeler and the relative newcomer. Tools of the Trade
Work SurfaceIf you do not have access to a workbench, you should get a flat, smooth board about two feet long and one-and-a-half feet wide. An Arborite or hard wood plank will do just fine. If you have limited space, the board can be stored vertically; alternatively, screw two metal "eyes" on one side and hang it on the closet wall between sessions. Your work area should always be kept tidy, clean, and well-organized. It is vital that it be well lit; the best light source, bar none, is the sun. If a window is not available, make sure that you have plenty of good illumination that is comfortable to your eyes. Modeling tools can be kept in drawers or old kit boxes, but it is better to have a dedicated toolbox. A fishing tackle box, with multiple drawers and storage compartments, is perfect to store all your tools. Safety First When talking about tools one must talk about safety. Remember that any tool capable of cutting through plastic and metal is doubly capable of cutting through flesh! When using a cutting tool, make sure you cut away from yourself to avoid accidents. A dull blade will be harder to control and require more pressure to cut, increasing the chances of slipping and causing injuries, so be sure the blade is very sharp. Don't forget that many of the paints and glues we use are toxic to some degree. Do not breathe the fumes and be sure to work in a well-ventilated area. Preparing PartsDream Pod 9 miniatures are sealed in plastic clam shell blisters. Carefully remove the metal staples in the blister before opening -- parts are loose and you do not want them flying off. Take the parts and place them in an orderly fashion on your work surface. The blister card has a picture of the assembled and painted miniature on it; use it to check if all parts are present and accounted for.
Once the part is free, remove any flash or mold lines by gently scrapping it off with the knife or a file, then lightly sand until you are satisfied with the finish. Repeat for each new part, paying special attention to small detail pieces. Glue
The term "epoxy glue" covers a variety of adhesive resins that are cured by a chemical reaction instead of evaporation. Most epoxies come as a two-part set that must be mixed in equal proportions, yielding a strong and nearly universal glue. They require a few minutes to set, making them perfect for assembling variable position parts. Assembling Metal Parts
Glue the parts together according to the picture on the blister card. Although the miniature can be assembled as is, it is highly recommended that metal pins be inserted between the large parts and larger miniatures for additional structural strength. You will need a pair of wire cutters, a length of 1 or 2 mm metal wire and a drill bit corresponding to the diameter of the wire. Place the parts where they should be, then take a small color marker and make four continuous lines on the two parts. Ideally, the four lines should mark the ends of a cross or an "X" pattern. Once this is done , turn the parts so that the surface of the joint is facing you. Taking the four marks as starting points, trace an "X" on the surface. The middle of the cross will be where you will drill your hole for the metal rod. Cut a short length of metal wire and glue it in the hole. Use a longer wire for bigger parts to add more strength. Assemble the kit normally, putty and sand. Leave the smaller parts off to simplify painting. Spray the miniature with an undercoat primer before painting it.
Kitbashing and Conversions Entire books and websites have been devoted to this subject, which encompasses more tricks and techniques than we could ever cover in one rapidly diminishing paragraph. Simple conversions can be accomplished by cutting and pinning arms, legs and waists to different poses, or using bits of spare sprue or plastic to create modified weapons and equipment. The Weapon Packs (Guns, Missiles and Dueling Arms) are an excellent source of spare parts that will allow you to build a large numbers of the vehicle variants shown in the Heavy Gear sourcebooks. You should also keep any and all parts left over from any modeling project you complete -- one never knows when that extra Light Autocannon will be needed... Putty and Gap-Filling
The structural strength of regular model putty is somewhat poor. If you have to build up a large area, two-part epoxy putty is a better choice. Epoxy putty consist of two bars of different colors that must be mixed in equal proportions. The putty will adhere to almost any surface, so work it with damp tools. Always wash your hands and your tools immediately afterwards. If the gap to be filled is in a detail-dense area of the miniature, apply strips of masking tape on either sides of the gap to prevent the putty from filling-in the detail. Remove the tape once sanding is done. You could also work the putty with sculpting tools, blending it into the model. Flight Base Options
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You will need some basic tools to assemble and paint your miniature. Some of them are a little bit costly, but if properly cared for they will last for many years.
Some small parts are attached to metal sprues. Do not twist the parts off the sprues -- it is the best way to damage them. Use a pair of small cutters and don't cut too close to the pieces. You can always come back with a hobby knife or a file later. You can also use the hobby knife directly, but be careful.
You will need either cyanocrylate (CA) glue or two-part epoxy glue to assemble the miniature. CA glue is better known as superglue. It bonds just about anything very strongly (including flesh), but the bonds formed are weak unless the mating surfaces are clean, absolutely dry and fit well. CA glue is best applied with a small toothpick. The better the fit between the parts to be joined, the stronger the bond. Be extremely careful when working with CA glue. It will glue anything that comes into contact with it, including skin. Cyanocrylate contains some minute quantity of cyanide, which is a toxic compound. Use it in a well-ventilated area and don't breathe the fumes. Never, ever heat it to make it cure faster.
Metal requires the use of either CA or epoxy glue for assembly. Start by cleaning all the parts, removing flash and mold lines. Assemble the parts without glue to see how they fit together. Cut, file and bend where necessary to improve the fit. Some parts may be left off for painting to make the job easier. If this is the case, make sure the joint won't be too apparent afterward, since you won't be able to apply putty on the painted surfaces. In the case of Jovian Chronicles and Luft Krieg miniatures you will also have to drill a small hole in the underside to mount them on the flight base.
Gaps may appear where the parts meet. Putty is a malleable substance that hardens when it dries. Putty comes in small, squeezable tubes, and several brands are available at your local hobby store. Apply the putty with a toothpick -- just enough to fill the gap -- and let it dry before sanding off the excess. Model putty takes forever to dry when applied in thick coats.
Dream Pod 9's Jovian Chronicles and Luft Krieg miniatures come with plastic flight bases. If you want to keep the hole on the underside of your miniatures as small as possible, we suggest replacing the plastic peg with a metal wire. You will need a drill bit the same size as the wire and then drill a hole into the plastic base and glue the wire into it. Drill a hole in the underside of the miniature, but don't glue it to the wire base. This way you can swap the miniature to bases with different heights of wire. Lastly, you can also paint the wire black to match the base.