Painting

Different Paint Brushes Painting makes or breaks a miniature. Without paint, it will almost always appear artificial, metallic and somewhat lifeless.

The importance of a clean, well-lit and well-ventilated workplace cannot be stressed enough. The Sun provides the best light, but a good work lamp will do too. Your tools (paint bottles, brushes, thinner, paper towels, etc.) should be tidy, organized and within easy reach. Make sure the work surface is protected by old newspapers or a similar material. The work area should be clean and dust-free. A comfortable environment will make everything easier and will lead to a better enjoyment of your painting sessions.

Paint Types

You will need some hobby paints to color your miniature. The basic tool kit should include the following colors: black, white, red, green, yellow, blue and brown. More specialized colors like silver, gold, and flesh (if you intend to add some crew or infantry figures) can also prove useful. Because of their chemistry, different paint types (enamels, acrylics, and others) cannot be mixed with one another. Even mixing different brands of the same type is not recommended.

Acrylics: the modern modeling paint, these should be the beginner's choice. They are easy to use and use water or isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) as thinner. Acrylics become impervious to water once they dry. They are also easily shaded and have a mat satiny finish.

Enamels: the classic modeling paints, these cover very well, are thin and do not obscure fine detail much. On the downside, enamels are very volatile and smell terrible since they use turpentine (mineral spirit) as a diluent and suspension agent.

Lacquers: lacquer paints are mostly used for railroad modeling, since they yield perfectly mat surfaces and look very realistic. Lacquer chemistry is even smellier, more reactive and more toxic than enamel's. Lacquers works best when very thin coats of paint are applied, preferably with an airbrush (paint gun).

Oil Paints: these are the pasty paints found in tubes at the local art stores. They are not really suitable for general modeling, though some use them for figure painting. Because of their very long drying time, oil paints lend themselves well to the delicate blending and feathering of colors required for large, realistic figures.

Color Schemes and Markings

Camouflage does not make a unit invisible, but it does tend to make it a lot less conspicuous (and a whole lot more likely to be disregarded by a weary sentinel). Contrarily to what many think, camouflage does help to fool visual sensors. It is also highly practical for hiding and storing the vehicle. Military vehicles are painted according to several criterias: the environment in which they will operate, the unit to which the vehicle belongs and other, more mundane considerations such as ease of maintenance.

Mechanisms, depending on the material in which they are made, will generally appear a dull metallic blue-gray in their natural, unpainted state. Some parts, such as the actuators, may have a high chrome finish for increased resistance to corrosion and reduced friction, but their high reflectivity means they are likely to be hidden within the structure. The coloration of unpainted armor plates also depends on the material that compose it. Bare durasheet has a dull and greyish dark steel finish, the upper ceramic glazing being semi-transparent. Some glazing have a different chemical composition and range from sand to pure gray in color.

Unit colors and heraldry is perhaps the most disputed subject of all. Some units would think nothing of going into battle in full parade dress, their vehicles resplendent in brightly colored livery. Others argue (often with reason) that doing so is an open invitation to get shot and shun all except the smallest identification codes on the hull of their battle machines. Most walk the middle road and adorn their charge with small, muted color versions of their standard badges and insignias.

Example: Terra Nova is a planet of contrast and feature many different ecosystems, each with its own colors and characteristics. It would be impossible to create a camouflage pattern that would be effective in all of them, but more or less standard patterns have evolved in several distinct categories. Many more are possible -- here are a few different Heavy Gear camo patterns that you can try out.

Heavy Gear Camo Patterns

Painting

The following images show the R3 Roughrider in the various stages of painting. First, the miniature is cleaned and assembled, then attached securely to its base (or other convenient handle) so it doesn't have to be touched while painting. Apply a coat of primer to the entire surface -- this will allow the paint to stick better to the model, and also allows you to see (and correct) any surface defect before you start painting. Primers are generally sold in spray cans; white or light gray is a good choice.

Basic colors are next. Once the primer coat is thoroughly dry, apply the basic colors of the paint scheme you have selected to the entire model. Acrylic paints are the best choice, since they are non-toxic, have little odor and can be diluted with water. Try to keep the divisions between basic colors neat and straight, though at this point any mistakes are easily corrected. Make sure the paint is properly diluted and not too thick: it should cover the surface without obscuring details. Remember that two light coats are always preferable to a single thick coat.

Once the basic colors are dry, start painting the other major areas of the models: wheels, weapons, missiles, etc. Once more, it's important to keep the colors neat and apply thin coats to avoid obscuring surface details. By now you'll have a good idea of what the finished model will look like. If you are in a hurry to play, models painted up to this step look quite acceptable on the tabletop.

The key to making a miniature look good is to accentuate its natural form and surface details. Prepare a darker mix of the color of the area you'll be working on, and dilute it so the paint will flow freely. Using a thin brush, apply this mixture to the model's panel lines and joints. This will create deep shadows and generate the illusion that the miniature is a complex mechanical device rather than a solid piece of pewter.

Raw metal areas can be accentuated by brushing metallic paint over a black or dark gray undercoat. Load the brush with pigment but remove most of it on a dry towel before applying it. You want metallic accents, not a solid color (remember, you can always add more if need be).

Highlighting accentuates the details. Prepare a lighter mix of the color of the area you'll be working on. Using a thin brush, lightly apply this mixture on raised details and corners -- basically, any place that would catch light. This is easy to overdo, so be careful. Once this is done, paint any remaining small details: sensors, antennae, etc.

Once this is done, paint the base in a neutral ground color, glue some sand or flock to it (optional) and seal the paint job with a clear varnish to protect the model during play (see further down).

Painting Preparation	Basic Colors
Details and Lining	Highlights and Decals

Varnishes

After painting, a light coat of clear varnish will help protect the miniature. Varnishes come as liquid or spray-can. The one main rule is to never, ever use gloss varnish. While it provides excellent protection for your model, its shiny appearance totally removes the illusion of scale. If concerned about having a neat, clean finish, use semi-gloss (also known as "eggshell") instead. The best finish for military models is flat.

Let the final coat of paint dry thoroughly before applying the varnish. About three days should be enough, provided the miniature is in a well-ventilated place.

If you'd like to learn all the best tricks for painting check out the classes on Fine Arts and painting available online.