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Building a running Hunter
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Vehicle Name: Running Hunter
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| Step 1: Assembly
Carefully clean up all the pieces. The conversion is quite simple: it involves cutting off the metal bar that fits the slot in the base, then repositioning the left leg. Start by removing the metal bar, being careful not to damage the feet; sand them flat. Courageous modelers might want to model the wheels and threads, but it's not absolutely required. Carefully cut the left leg at the knee, starting from the back and ending up just above the knee block. Clean off the stumps on both parts; normally, the only metal being removed is part of the knee articulation, and the armor plates shouldn't be touched. |
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Glue the lower leg to the thight of the Hunter (see the second picture). It might be necessary to do a bit of filing to get a good mating surface. This gives the impression that the leg is flexed back. Apply putty as needed to cover the gap at the front; purists may want to model the extended actuator (see the Tech Manual for the complete Hunter frame diagrams). The next part is tricky: wedge the "toe" of the right foot of the Gear in the slot of the base (see third picture, below). If required, pins can be run to make the whole thing sturdier, but a good epoxy glue should do the trick (fill in the rest of the slot with more glue or putty). Make sure the arms are added in a posture that fits the movement. |
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Step 2: Basing and Painting
Glue some sand or flock to the base to give it a ground texture. An old paintbrush and carpenter's glue make the work fairly easy: spread the glue around the figure, then sprinkle fine sand or flock evenly, shaking out the excess after a few minutes. Once this is thoroughly dry, a second coat of highly diluted glue can go on top to lock down any errant grain of sand. Glue on any additional accessories (spare parts, ammo clips, scenery items, ruins) and give the entire model a coat of primer paint. |
Paint the model using the same base color as the rest of your Heavy Gear forces. In this case, the Gear was painted in two shades of brown; no camouflage was used, to make sure the shape and volumes would show well. The sensor and details were then added with a fine paintbrush. The ground was painted brown, then several sand tones were drybrushed over it. Though this was not done here, flock and lichen can be used to create more complex scenery for the base.
There are many gamers and modelers out there doing some very cool stuff with our miniatures, and we want them to share their work with others! If you have Web-sized (3-4", 72 pixels/inch) pictures of Dream Pod 9 infantry miniatures, send them to us!
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