How to Build our Kits HOW TO BUILD FUSION MODELS

Garage kits are so named because of their small production run, often manufactured in small facilities. Resin is used as the primary material because it does not require extensive industrial facilities to mold; it also has the advantage of being cast in soft molds, allowing more complex parts to be made. Resin "holds" detail really well, and Fusion resin kits are extensively detailed and engraved.

For the modeler of some experience, just remember that resin kits are not built quite the same way as plastic kits. They have their own quirks, and can be hard to build properly. When building a garage kit, refer extensively to the instructions. The following text should prove helpful to both the experienced modeler and the relative newcomer.

Tools of the Trade

You will need tools to assemble and paint your model properly. Some tools are costly, but if properly cared for they will last for many years.

  • Hobby Knife
  • Small Scissors
  • Tweezers
  • Sandpaper (medium, fine and extra-fine)
  • Needle Files
  • Pin Vise and Drill Bits
  • Clamps
  • Pliers
  • Toothpicks
  • Paintbrushes

Work Surface

If you do not have access to a workbench, you should get a flat, smooth board about two feet long and one-and-a-half feet wide. An Arborite or hard wood plank will do just fine. If you have limited space, the board can be stored vertically; alternatively, screw two metal "eyes" on one side and hang it on the closet wall between sessions.

Your work area should always be kept tidy, clean, and well-organized. It is vital that it be well lit; the best light source, bar none, is the sun. If a window is not available, make sure that you have plenty of good illumination that is comfortable to your eyes.

Modeling tools can be kept in drawers or old kit boxes, but it is better to have a dedicated toolbox. A fishing tackle box, with multiple drawers and storage compartments, is perfect to store all your tools.

Safety First

When talking about tools one must talk about safety. Remember that any tool capable of cutting through plastic and metal is doubly capable of cutting through flesh!

When using a cutting tool, make sure you cut away from yourself to avoid accidents. A dull blade will be harder to control and require more pressure to cut, increasing the chances of slipping and causing injuries, so be sure the blade is very sharp.

Don't forget that many of the paints and glues we use are toxic to some degree. Do not breathe the fumes and be sure to work in a well-ventilated area.

Assembly

Fusion kits are divided in sealed plastic bags within their boxes. Don't rip the bags open -- parts are loose and you do not want them flying off. Take the parts and place them in an orderly fashion on your work surface. The instructions double as a parts list; use it to check if all parts are present and accounted for. At the same time, check if any parts have been damaged during transit. Damage usually take the form of chipping, which can be fixed with little trouble.

Small parts are attached to a resin wafer or sprue. Do not twist the parts off the wafers or sprues -- it is the best way to damage them. Use a pair of small cutters and don't cut too close to the pieces. You can always come back with a hobby knife or a file later. You can also use the hobby knife directly, but be careful not to apply too much pressure: resin is brittle.

Once the part is free, remove any flash or mold lines by gently scrapping it off with the knife or a file, then lightly sand until you are satisfied with the finish. Repeat for each new part, paying special attention to small detail pieces.

Glue

You will need either cyanocrylate (CA) glue or two-part epoxy glue to assemble the model. CA glue is better known as superglue. It bonds just about anything very strongly (including flesh), but the bonds formed are weak unless the mating surfaces are clean, absolutely dry and fit well. CA glue is best applied with a small toothpick. The better the fit between the parts to be joined, the stronger the bond. Be extremely careful when working with CA glue. It will glue anything that comes into contact with it, including skin. Cyanocrylate contains some minute quantity of cyanide, which is a toxic compound. Use it in a well-ventilated area and don't breathe the fumes. Never, ever heat it to make it cure faster.

The term "epoxy glue" covers a variety of adhesive resins that are cured by a chemical reaction instead of evaporation. Most epoxies come as a two-part set that must be mixed in equal proportions, yielding a strong and nearly universal glue. They require a few minutes to set, making them perfect for assembling variable position parts.

Assembling Resin Parts

Glue the parts together according to the instruction sheet. Although the model can be assembled as is, it is highly recommended that metal pins be inserted between the large parts for additional structural strength. You will need a pair of wire cutters, a length of 1 or 2 mm metal wire and a drill bit corresponding to the diameter of the wire.

Place the parts where they should be, then take a small color marker and make four continuous lines on the two parts. Ideally, the four lines should mark the ends of a cross or an "X" pattern. Once this is done , turn the parts so that the surface of the joint is facing you. Taking the four marks as starting points, trace an "X" on the surface. The middle of the cross will be where you will drill your hole for the metal rod.

Cut a short length of metal wire and glue it in the hole. Use a longer wire for bigger parts to add more strength. Assemble the kit normally, putty and sand. Leave the smaller parts off to simplify painting. Spray the model with an undercoat primer before painting it.

Assembling Metal Parts

Your kit may include some metal parts. Metal requires the use of either CA or epoxy glue for assembly. Start by cleaning all the parts, removing flash and mold lines. Assemble the parts without glue to see how they fit together. Cut, file and bend where necessary to improve the fit. Some parts may be left off for painting to make the job easier. If this is the case, make sure the joint won't be too apparent afterward, since you won't be able to apply putty on the painted surfaces.

Putty and Gap-Filling

Gaps may appear where the parts meet. Putty is a malleable substance that hardens when it dries. Putty comes in small, squeezable tubes, and several brands are available at your local hobby store. Apply the putty with a toothpick -- just enough to fill the gap -- and let it dry before sanding off the excess. Model putty takes forever to dry when applied in thick coats.

The structural strength of regular model putty is somewhat poor. If you have to build up a large area, two-part epoxy putty is a better choice. Epoxy putty consist of two bars of different colors that must be mixed in equal proportions. The putty will adhere to almost any surface, so work it with damp tools. Always wash your hands and your tools immediately afterwards.

If the gap to be filled is in a detail-dense area of the model, apply strips of masking tape on either sides of the gap to prevent the putty from filling-in the detail. Remove the tape once sanding is done. You could also work the putty with sculpting tools, blending it into the model.

Installing Cables On Your Models

Some Fusion kits include decorative cables. Locate the mounting hole and clean it. Measure the length of cable you will need (a template is always provided in the instructions) and cut a piece of the right length. Put a little drop of cyanocrylate glue in the hole and insert the cable; the glue will flow around the end and when dry will hold the cable in position.

Painting

Painting makes or breaks the model. Without paint, a model will almost always appear artificial and somewhat lifeless. In most cases, it will just look like a toy.

The importance of a clean, well-lit and ventilated workplace cannot be stressed enough. The sun provides the best light, but a good work lamp will do too. Your tools (paint bottles, brushes, thinner, paper towels, etc.) should be tidy, organized and within easy reach. Make sure the work surface is protected by old newspapers or a similar material. The work area should be clean and dust-free. A comfortable environment will make everything easier and will lead to a better enjoyment of your modeling sessions.

Paints

You will need some hobby paints to color your model. The basic tool kit should include the following colors: black, white, red, green, yellow, blue, and brown. More specialized colors like silver, gold, and flesh (if you intend to add some crewmen figures) can also prove useful. Because of their chemistry, different paint types (enamels, acrylics, and others) cannot be mixed with one another. Even mixing different brands of the same type is not recommended.

Enamels: cover very well, are thin and do not obscure fine detail much. Enamels are very volatile and smell terrible since they use turpentine (mineral spirit) as a diluent and suspension agent.

Oil Paints: these are the pasty paints found in tubes at the local art stores. They are not really suitable for general modeling, though some use them for figure painting. Because of their very long drying time, oil paints lend themselves well to the delicate blending and feathering of colors required for realistic figures.

Acrylics: logically, these should be the beginner's choice. They are easy to use and use water or isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) as thinner. Acrylics become impervious to water once they dry. They are also easily shaded and have a mat satiny finish.

Lacquers: lacquer paints are mostly used for railroad modeling, since they yield perfectly mat surfaces and look very realistic. Lacquer chemistry is even smellier, more reactive and more toxic than enamel's. Lacquers works best when very thin coats of paint are applied.

Varnishes

After painting, a light coat of clear varnish will help protect the model. Varnishes come as liquid or spray-can. The one main rule is to never, ever use gloss varnish. While it provides excellent protection for your model, its shiny appearance totally removes the illusion of scale. If concerned about having a neat, clean finish, use semi-gloss (also known as "eggshell") instead. The best finish for military models is flat.

Let the final coat of paint dry thoroughly before applying the varnish. About three days should be enough, provided the model is in a well-ventilated place.

Decals And Markings

A nice finishing touch on a model is carefully chosen and applied decals. Some Fusionª kits include decals (it will be mentioned in the description). They are transparent films mounted on a backing paper sheet.

Each marking should be cut out from the sheet as close as you can without damaging it. This will help hide the carrier film. The model's surface must be clean and dry. Dip each marking in water for about thirty seconds -- don't put them all in at the same time though, the glue will dissolve to nothing before you have the chance to place them all!

Using tweezers, place the damp decal over its intended spot. Carefully slide it into place -- don't try to lift it from the backing sheet, you'll rip it apart. Once you are satisfied with the decal's position, use a dry cloth to absorb the excess water. Don't rub, just tap, or you will damage the decal.

Once dry, seal the decals in with another thin coat of varnish. The model is complete!

The material on this page is copyright (c)1998-2001 Maquettes Fusion Models and may be borrowed and reproduced for any non-commercial promotional web page, on the condition that the page's author provides the proper copyrights and includes a link to the Fusion Models page (www.dp9.com/fusion) above the text.